Our Traditional Shoe Construction Methods
There are three basic methods of shoe construction: cementing, Blake welting, and Goodyear welting. For our Men's Footwear collection, we use both Blake and Original Goodyear welting methods. Each of them has its advantages, and defines how the sole is attached to the upper.
When talking about high-end footwear, the Goodyear Welt is often contrasted with the Blake stitch. With the Blake stitch, the upper is sewn directly to the sole, and it generally creates a more flexible type of shoe. On the other side, the Original Goodyear Welting process is considered to be performed by those with the highest levels of skills, craftsmanship leaving the customer with a product that will last a lifetime.
Traditional Shoe Making
Our Artisans are highly skilled at using the Original Goodyear Welting process which has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. Original Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labor intensive, and most durable of the three methods of construction.
For more than 300 years, the Original Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. More than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear shoes, and they use between 25 and 50 different elements and pieces. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.
In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented a machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionizing the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, the Goodyear method is commonly recognized as the highest quality production method in the high-end shoe market.
The welt refers to a strip of leather that is sewn around the perimeter of the upper of the shoe, onto the insole. The outer sole is then sewn to the welt, as opposed to being attached directly to the upper like the Blake stitch method.
The cavity created by the welt between the insole and the outer sole is filled with cork, another natural product which provides insulation, protection, and comfort: as you wear the shoe, the cork filler takes an impression of your foot, like memory foam. This provides unparalleled comfort and support when compared to cheaper forms of manufacturing.
Experts recognize Blake-stitched shoes by their soles: the insole is sewn directly to the outsole. Blake-stitched shoes such as loafers don’t have cork bottom fillers or any additional layers of insulation.
A special sewing machine is used for this shoe production method—this machine directly stitches through the outsole, insole and bottom edge of the shoe shaft, connecting them without using welts.
Blake-stitched shoes don’t feature cork bottom fillers or additional layers of insulation, like Goodyear shoes. Loafers are a prime example of this kind of shoe. As opposed to Goodyear-welted shoes, blake-stitched shoes are assembled in fewer steps.