Bespoke Shoes
Leathers & Fabrics

Our Raw & Sartorial Materials

Materials of the Highest Standards

Leather is the most important building block of each men's shoe, and its production is a process that requires masterful skill. The following rule of thumb holds true for all quality men's shoes: the more the leather has been processed, the higher it is in quality. And this comes, naturally, at a price. Roughly 47 percent of the production costs involved in making a men's shoe are due to the costly raw material. Our calf tanneries come from North West Spain, Germany and Italy. The types of leather below represent a full array of leather skins. They are all used in luxury footwear production and they give each shoe it's very own look and feel.  

Painted Calf Leather

Crust calf leather (painted calf) enables artisans to hand paint the pieces with special creams and brushes. The look is very artisanal. Sourced from Conceria Tolio in Italy. Learn more about Conceria Tolio at Raw leathers are then hand painted by our artisans. Besides the "plain" Painted Calf leather, we also offer it engraved with different textures, such as full grain or pebble grain.

Box Calf Leather

The majority of quality men's shoes are made from the hides of calves. Box calf is primarily distinguished by its fineness, pliability, and grain. Box Calf leathers are hand painted by our artisans.

Calf Suede

Also called "Suede" or "Lux Suede". This leather is created from the underside of the animal hide, as a result it is softer, and more supple and can have the appearance of a "furry nap".

Kid Suede

Kid Suede is the most soft, velvety suede leather type which comes from small goat skins. Considering these skins are from smaller sized animals, the skins themselves are quite small as well, which increases the price of the leather. It has a more refined finish with a a very small fine grain on the surface

Polished Calf

Polished calf refers to rectified grain calf. This eliminates any skin imperfections. The look is not as natural as a regular, plain full grain, but the look is very luxurious. This type of leather is quite expensive because of the post-production processes that it needs at the tannery. Polished Calf Leathers are hand painted by our artisans.

Patent Leather

A type of leather finish whereby the surface is treated to create a highly glossy, shiny appearance.

Nubuck Leather

Lightweight, supple leather made up of the most outer layer of a hide, the surface is buffed to give the grain a light velvety finish called a "nap".

Sartorial Materials

Discover our vast selection of high quality materials

We offer a full array of sartorial fabrics, flannels and velvets. Sartorial patterns like Tweed, Plaid, Tartan, Herringbone, Leopard, etc. The result of mixing these sartorial materials with classic hand painted leather in a shoe, is truly astonishing. Welcome to our world of bespoke shoes, welcome to the world of Pachulah. 

Select from all our Fabric options here

Classic Chelsea Boot

Oxblood Papiro Patina • Brown Leather Sole & Matching Patina Belt 

Available in our 3D designing Tool

Belgian Slipper

Blackwatch Wool Pattern • Contrasting Piping with Black Leather Sole 

Create your Belgian Slippers

Tassel Loafer

Wool Tweed Pattern • Leather Burgundy Tassels with Black Leather Sole

shop Loafers Now

Have you ever wondered why your shoes sole is peeling off?

You deserve better than a shoe with a sole that is glued to the upper. Click the button below to find out more about our industry leading shoe construction methods.

Shoe Construction Methods